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First Mountains – Crag Profile - Stanage Popular

Blog Posted on 09 Jun 2011

There is a good reason they call it Stanage popular end. With a good amount of parking, a short walk up the hill and a great set of routes all at an amenable grade this section of Grit Stone probably sees more traffic than any of its neighbours.

Its popularity shouldn’t mean you should avoid it, as its popular for good reason but a tactical decision on when to visit will mean you glean a better experience from this amazing section of crag!

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Must do low graded routes

Mantle piece buttress Diff

what it lacks in technical difficulty it gains with exposure and great positioning. For a fuller experience try and stay as far right as possible.

Small Crack VDiff.

An interesting introduction to grit stone jamming only requiring a few moves with the delightful technique and can be avoided all together if wedging your hands in isn’t something you enjoy.

Physiology VDiff

If you’re lucky your body will fit nicely in the crack on the left side! Making the route feel much more amenable. If not its still great fun!

Black Hawk Hell Crack S4a

A delightful romp up what is defiantly a sever route offering all sorts of climbing from slabs t mantelshelves to really big holds. There is even a nice thread at about 3 quarters height that will make you feel much more comfortable before making some bold feeling moves to top out.

Black Hawk traverse Left VDiff.

A must for everyone this is a great journey across the face of this little bay. With a very aquard feeling step left from the niche early on it then eases and provides great climbing all the way to the top. Has a great hidden ledge, which provides some great handholds and a much needed rest.

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Best guidebooks

This area is covered by rockfax Eastern Grit stone and the BMC Stanage guide. The BMC Stanage guide is definitive and also covers all the bouldering in the area But if your just on a flying visit the RockFax guide will be more than enough to keep you busy, probably for ever.

Nearest Café

Down to wards Hathersage you will be greeted by a whole load of pubs and cafes. If you after a climbers feast then the Outside café has to be the place to head but if your tastes are more refined then a trip to Coleman’s deli will certainly delight.

This article was written by John Bale who runs First Mountains an outdoor activities company based in Sheffield. They run Climbing, Navigation and Mountaineering courses throughout the year based in the Peak District

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