Its 5pm and your already out of the office and in the car heading out to the Peak ready for some hard earned climbing time! Stanage, “Apparent north” is the destination and a short walk in equipped with only a bouldering pad leads you to your escape and some less frequently visited gems.
This area is a quick hit and like many of the smaller gritstone edges can be a sociable bouldering venue or sanctuary for the lone climber. It will certainly leave you wanting more as the sunsets and you wander back to the car.
Parking on the side of the road is easy. As you drive from Burbage Bridge towards Stanage, fork right after the cattle grid and then park on the left just it starts to head down hill. The path is fairly obvious on the other side of the road!
All the bouldering and routes run as the crag becomes less defined towards Burbage north. Using the BMC guidebook you will find a delightful selection of circuits and problems to go at. But also wandering with out the guidebook can tempt you into exploring many of the undocumented possibilities rather than what’s been done before!
Fantastic lower grade problems
Pert Wall V0-
Reaching between good breaks, as with many problems on the edge it feels a bit high with just a bouldering pad but the top moves are easier than the bottom ones!
Just to the right of pert wall, nice moves to start but the top feels rather committing and bold.
The high road V0- on the Huge Slab
A really fun little adventure! It’s hard getting on to the slab but after that it’s all about enjoying the friction! Little airy towards the top!
Eeny HVD 4a Meeny S 4b Miny HS 4b
This trio of routes require a little bit of altitude but with a good landing and easier upper moves these all go like a dream!
Flat Wall traverse V3
The Hardest problem listed here requiring some technical moves and stamina. This traverse is as long as some routes and becomes tricky when the feet disappear or when you run out of energy! Although its nice and close to the floor so the individual sections can be mastered before linking them all up.
The Norfolk Arms in Ringinglow is on route if you’re heading back in to Sheffield. You’re also not to far away from carrying on down the hill in to Hathersage to the Scotsman’s pack, depending on which way your heading.
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