Description:
Hardwick Hall - A Family Day Out.
Most visitors heading for the Peak District have their sights set on the hills and dales of the White and Dark Peak, or, if they are planning to do a bit of culture, aim for the grand pile that is Chatsworth. Nothing wrong with that as these attractions are justly popular, but there are some slightly less obvious gems that shouldn’t be missed; one of these is Hardwick Hall near Chesterfield. Many pass by it as they zoom up or down the M1, barely giving it a sideways glance, but next time you find yourself planning a trip into Derbyshire, exit at Junction 29 and spend a few hours exploring the TWO Hardwick Halls, park and garden.
As you approach, the dramatic and spooky ruins of the original hall first comes into view and then the magnificent new hall is upon you. The first things that impress are the massive windows - prompting the oft-quoted saying “Hardwick Hall, more glass than wall” - and the elaborate stonework on the roofs, topped with “E S”, signature of Elizabeth Shrewsbury, better known as Bess of Hardwick.
English Heritage looks after the original hall on behalf of the National Trust and it somehow seems appropriate to visit this first. It is the birth place of Bess, born into a family of minor gentry yet who, through a series of marriages, became one of the richest women in Elizabethan England and confidante of Queen Elizabeth I. Hardwick old hall fell into ruin in the 18th Century yet it is not difficult to imagine what a grand house it became over the years before Bess had the new one built. The impressive stone staircase still wends upwards over three floors, to what was must have been magnificent state rooms at the top; huge, now window-less frames allow one to look out over the rolling countryside, and of course, to the stately building that superseded it. Children will probably not be too impressed by the sections of stuccoed panelling and a plasterwork coat-of-arms overmantel, which remain on parts of the inside walls, or fireplaces seemingly built half-way up the now floor-less rooms, but they will enjoy discovering the hidden nooks and crannies; massive inglenooks and little passages leading to stone-flagged pantries, stores and 550 year old bread ovens.
The tour of the new Hardwick Hall, is a completely contrasting experience, however, its opulence and grandeur still intact, both inside and out. If you have children with you, they may not appreciate the fine details of the magnificent tapestries and embroideries (some are the work of Bess herself), huge ancestral portraits or fine carved furniture, but the sheer size and elegance of the rooms certainly have the “wow” factor - especially the Long Gallery, which takes your breath away. There are fascinating details to discover - the extremely knowledgeable and friendly National Trust staff are very adept at pointing out these little details that help to inform your visit; don’t miss the skull of the Giant Elk, discovered in a peat bog in Ireland which is said to be 30,000 years old, or the linen chests that at night turned into beds for the servants so that they could be in close attendance should their services be required. Also, don’t miss one of the most important surviving pieces of Elizabethan furniture, which is located in the Withdrawing Room - it is a beautifully carved walnut table with sea-dog legs, resting on tortoises, and it may have been a gift to Bess from either Mary Queen of Scots or Elizabeth herself. As you wander through the rooms, trying to imagine what life must have been like in those times, you will find little activities to engage children, such as jig-saw portraits of Bess, the opportunity to write a letter from Hardwick, draw a self-portrait or deck oneself in fake Elizabethan pearls; all thoughtfully done to entertain the younger visitors.
The last resident of Hardwick, was the widow of the 9th Duke of Devonshire, the Duchess Evelyn, and the Drawing Room is left as it was in the late 1950’s before she handed the house to the National Trust. Bess of Hardwick’s second husband was Sir William Cavendish, and it was their son, William, who became the 1st Earl of Devonshire. It was during the time that Bess and Sir William were together that the Chatsworth estate was purchased and the original Tudor mansion was built there in 1552. Some of the treasures - and indeed one of the fireplaces - have come from Chatsworth over the years, but Bess preferred Hardwick and her investment and energy was eventually put into the design and building of the new hall, where she remained until her death in 1608.
At the end of your visit to the buildings, there is the opportunity to have a hearty bowl of soup in the former kitchen, now a café, before venturing outside to explore the formal gardens and park. Whilst some of the food consumed in the 1600’s might still be on the menu today, you certainly won’t find peewits, plovers, widgeons, carp, pike or celery wine, some of the fayre which was served up in the 1668 - 69 New Year festivities!
Outside, the formal gardens are delightful to stroll in at any time of year and allow one to view the house from different angles, whilst the park and estate extend over 900 acres, where circular walking routes will take you past some of the interesting features, such as the Great Pond (look out for rare water voles and kingfishers), and pieces of historic woodland where veteran trees mingle with younger ones, planted as part of the landscape restoration. You may also spot a brown hare or two amongst the avenue of limes, known as The Wine Glass, due to its shape, or a green woodpecker on the grassy slopes towards the Rowthorne Gate.
At the end of your visit, if you leave by car you will pass by the Hardwick Inn, built in 1608 in the same sandstone as the hall, the year of Bess’s death. If you fancy a bite to eat, food is served daily from 11.30 - 9.30 pm (12 noon - 9.00 pm on Sundays) and there is an extensive bar, restaurant and light-bites menu. There are usually two or three real ales on tap, one of which is, of course, the locally brewed “Bess O’ Hardwick” bitter. An appropriate finalé to a fascinating day out in one of the Peak District’s lesser visited areas.
Judy Corble
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