One of the nearest crags to Sheffield. It is mostly short in height but provides a delight of routes or High boulder problems. It is easily accessed from car parking at Burbage Bridge (SK264826) and is a very short walk in along a bridleway 2mins to the first buttress or 10/15 to the furthest climbing. The crag is quite popular, especially with outdoor groups in the week.
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Worthwhile low-grade routes.
20 foot crack S 4a
A 20-foot vertical crack splitting the first buttress it is well protected with cams. Watch out for polished footholds and be prepared to experience the delights of grit stone jamming.
Ash tree wall S 4a
Another grit stone crack to start this route which leads to a horizontal break which you traverse across before heading straight up. The hardest part is getting from the middle of the crack to the horizontal break, but traversing left isn’t a doddle either!
Monkey corner HVD
A short little route with a great move round the corner from a hunched up position on good holds to before going up a slab to finish.
Overhanging Buttress Direct S 4a
Starting up the slab under the overhang climb to directly under the overhang and traverse out on good holds (small cams to protect) before a tricky move to get established on the face. From then on the climbing eases to the top.
Guide books for the area
If you’re an occasional visitor to the peak district you will find the selective guide, RockFax Eastern Grit has more than enough detail for all the grit stone edges. If however your frequenting them a little more often then the BMC guide Burbage Millstone and Beyond has much more detail, covering all the Bouldering and Routes and even hold an interesting fact or two.
The Norfolk Arms in Ringinglow is the nearest and nicest! They have a walkers bar and a good selection of real beers. They also serve fantastic food!
This article was written by John Bale who runs First Mountains an outdoor activities company based in Sheffield. They run Climbing, Navigation and Nordic Walking Courses Throughout the year based in the peak District