Peak District Climbing Venues

Selected Peak District Climbing Venues

Birchen Edge (SK 279728)

Birchen Edge is a popular location for those starting out. Birchens (sic) has a vast number of easy, to middle grade rock climbs, in a friendly setting. The crag is often popular with families in the summer, given the vast number of grassy, flat picnic spots, between the boulders and its proximity to the Eric Byne campsite.

Access: From the car park near the Robin Hood pub walk a short way up the road to a stile and a sandy track giving access to the climbs in about 10 minutes.

Conditions: Birchen Edge is quick drying and a great spot on a summer evening. Sometimes good in the winter or spring when the slightly higher edges are snowbound or very cold!

Black Rocks (SK 294557)

Black Rocks exhibit some fantastic natural gritstone with sometimes frighteningly rounded holds, all the routes have a bit feel with great views down the valley towards Matlock. For the budding geologist Black Rocks is located right on the boundary between the Peak District limestone and millstone grit (gritstone). Home to the famed route “˜Gaia’ and the horrifying fall sequence at the start of the film “Hard Grit”?.

Access: No more than 5 minutes from the car park and picnic site below the crag.

Conditions: Black Rocks can be exposed to the wind, but excellent in spring and summer conditions.

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Burbage North (SK 263828-268822)

Burbage North is perhaps one of the most popular climbing grounds for Sheffield climbers due to its small routes and its proximity to the car park. Frequently, you will see people moving unfettered by ropes and hardware as the climbs are small in stature, and of medium difficulty, allowing many to be completed in a summer evening. In fact many devotees return time and time again to do their regular circuits of routes.

Access: No more than 2 minutes from the car!

Conditions: Can be exposed to the wind, but ideal for an evenings climbing. Often popular with families.

Burbage South (SK 266810-268812)

Burbage South is probably more famously known for its bouldering, however, there is a lot of good quality climbing to be found on the main edge. Especially good in a hot summer, the north facing aspect means that some shade can be found at most times of the day. It’s worth going just to have a look at the impressive prow of “˜Parthian Shot’.

Access: Via the well worn track (the green drive) from Burbage North or the small car park near Toads Mouth.

Conditions: Great if you are in need of some shade, can be a bit green in the winter months.

Chee Tor (SK 124734)

Chee Tor is about excellent steep limestone climbing, that has kept to its traditional roots! Abseil descent or lowering off might be required, from the large horizontal break, at two-thirds height (Chee Tor Girdle). Remember to take a pair of sandals for crossing the river..

Access: Walk down the dale from Millers Dale or Topley Pike (on the A6), it’s not exactly roadside but it will be quieter than the Eastern Edges.

Conditions: Catches the sun in the afternoon, can sometimes be wet due to seepage after heavy rain.

Cratcliffe Tor (SK 228624)

Cratcliffe Tor is perhaps one of the best locations on grit, steep pitches of immaculate gritstone that require a good bit of hand jamming in many cases. The fine routes either side of Owl Gully, such as “˜Five Finger Exercise’ and “˜Fern Hill’ won’t be forgotten in a hurry. The nearby Robin Hoods Stride is also worth checking out, being one of the areas premier bouldering venues. Here there is everything to occupy the beginner to seasoned pro.

Access: A brisk 10 minutes up the track from the road should see you there.

Conditions: Catches the morning sun, can sometimes get some shade in a warm summer evening.

Brought to you by our resident climbing expert James Thacker