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Peak district rock Climbing blog
Peak District Photography - About Will Legon
About Will Legon   Formerly Mr Legon (maths teacher), Captain Legon (Territorial Army officer) and sometimes that loud-mouth Legon (my mates), and now just Will Legon, I am a mountain leader and a qualified single pitch award holder taking people walking and rock climbing within the UK and overseas. Never too serious, but always the professional, I own and run Will4Adventure. Rubbish at football, and marginally better playing rugby, I realised I had to get good at something if I was to cut the mustard with my peers. And...
About Will Legon
Peak District Photography - Mat Galvin Mountaineering
Hello, we’re Mat Galvin Mountaineering!   Our courses are all about you having a fantastic time on the hills and crags with us, whilst learning as much as possible during your weekend. We offer everything from Basic Navigation and guided walks to Climbing, Scrambling and Mountain craft.   All of the Instructors and Leaders are experienced School teachers who know how to get the best out of a course for you. We don’t run many weekends a year with the idea being we will be fresh and raring to go when...
Mat Galvin Mountaineering
Peak District Photography - Summer Super Challenges
It is yet another beautiful day here in the Peak District and as we are slowly turning toward the summer with longer days and dry crags. This weekend at Pure Outdoor we were running a hillwalking and navigation course and our first rock climbing course of the season so it is certainly time to make summer plans. Today however we are going to talk about some of our ‘Summer Super Challenges’, we do not advertise these as we tend to offer these to current customers but here is a sneak peak of some ideas for you to get...
Summer Super Challenges
It’s the experience that makes the difference! At Acclimbatize we consider that quality and safety are intrinsic! Our supreme levels of expertise combined with an intimate knowledge of the local area mean that activity sessions spent with us are both action packed and fun. We specialise in the delivery of bespoke outdoor adventure experiences and uniquely planned challenge events.  We deliver to a diversity of client groups including: Stag and Hen weekends, Team away days, Family Holidays, Individual training and...
Peak District Team Building - Acclimbatize - Matlock
There is a good reason they call it Stanage popular end. With a good amount of parking, a short walk up the hill and a great set of routes all at an amenable grade this section of Grit Stone probably sees more traffic than any of its neighbours. Its popularity shouldn’t mean you should avoid it, as its popular for good reason but a tactical decision on when to visit will mean you glean a better experience from this amazing section of crag! Must do low graded routes Mantle piece buttress Diff what it lacks in technical difficulty...
First Mountains – Crag Profile - Stanage Popular
If you are looking for excitement, challenge, adventure or a fine day out in the countryside, then look no further. With over fifty years experience and an exemplary safety record Lindley Educational Trust offers adventurous activities and challenges for groups and families. We can offer a wide range of day activities or a structured developmental programme and are confident you will have an experience that will stay with you for many years. Activity Programmes Our programmes provide opportunities for individuals and teams to discover...
Peak District Activities - Hollowford Activities - Castleton
    GUIDED WALKING AND CLIMBING HOLIDAYS Outdoor Scene Adventures has a vast amount of experience – experiences for you to enjoy and years of experience to give you confidence to venture into the great outdoors. The Company is run by Mick and his son Andy. Mick is a qualified Mountain Leader and Andy is SPA qualified for climbing and a kayak instructor, all leaders hold first aid certificates and are committed to your enjoyment and safety.   The company is based in Derby and have the Peak District on...
Peak District Guided Walking and Climbing Holidays
Evolution Outdoors Ltd has provided top quality adventurous outdoor activities since 2007.   Based in the Peak District, Evolution Outdoors is a young and exciting outdoors company run by an unusual mix of people with backgrounds ranging from ex-soldiers to chemistry graduates, all with a wealth of outdoors and leadership experience.   We are a family run business with an emphasis on fun but safe outdoors activities. We limit the number of clients we work with in order to ensure the quality of our courses are kept to the highest...
Peak District Activities - Evolution Outdoors - Chesterfield
Its 5pm and your already out of the office and in the car heading out to the Peak ready for some hard earned climbing time! Stanage, “Apparent north” is the destination and a short walk in equipped with only a bouldering pad leads you to your escape and some less frequently visited gems.      This area is a quick hit and like many of the smaller gritstone edges can be a sociable bouldering venue or sanctuary for the lone climber.  It will certainly leave you wanting more as the sunsets and...
First Mountains - Escape to Stanage - Apparent North!
Peak District Photography - John Bale - First Mountains Blog
  Location One of the nearest crags to Sheffield . It is mostly short in height but provides a delight of routes or High boulder problems. It is easily accessed from car parking at Burbage Bridge (SK264826) and is a very short walk in along a bridleway 2mins to the first buttress or 10/15 to the furthest climbing . The crag is quite popular, especially with outdoor groups in the week. View Climbing Locations in a larger map Worthwhile low-grade routes. 20 foot crack S 4a A 20-foot vertical crack splitting the...
John Bale - First Mountains Blog
Peak District Photography - Top tips for Peak District Belay Set Ups
  The third article in the Pure Outdoor series and this week we are looking at setting up good quality belays on gritstone crags. You have just topped out after climbing your first Peak District rock climb. If you are used to climbing in different areas with an abundance of anchors, trees or at complex crags without a 'flat top' you may find Gritstone quite unique when it comes to setting up belays. Please note that these notes are written as a guide and are in no way any alternative to experience, training and practice...
Top tips for Peak District Belay Set Ups
Peak District Photography - All Weather Climbing in the Peak
It was a beautiful day from the office that overlooks the Peak this morning. Time to leave the computer alone and get out climbing for the afternoon. At PureOutdoor we are lucky enough to get out climbing in the Peak Distric t for work and play, but when the phone rings and it is time to go climbing, where do you go? This article is aimed at those who possibly come up to the Peak District to go climbing but aren’t entirely sure what to do when the weather isn’t exactly what you were hoping for. This particular...
All Weather Climbing in the Peak
Blue Mountain Activities The Derbyshire Peak District is a fantastic area for outdoor adventure activities, with rolling hills and moorland, together with fast flowing rivers through spectacular limestone gorges. The Peak District is centrally located in the UK with good motorway access. Whether Rock Climbing in stunning and picturesque surroundings, at a ‘classic’ venue for example, Stanage Edge, or a Canoe descent of an exciting white water rapid on the River Derwent at Matlock or exploring the spectacular...
Peak District Things To Do - Blue Mountain Activities - Chesterfield
  The 4th article in the series from Pure Outdoor is on accessiblilty for people coming out to get stuck into some of the countried finest rock climbing. Perhaps you do not own a vehicle or you fancy using public transport as a cost effective and environmentally sounds way of getting to and from te crags. Afterall, if you don't smash out aheap of routes in a day you may end up driving a long way and using a lot of fuel for very few verticle miles. 1) Rail Access The Peak District is home of the TransPennine Sheffield -...
Environmentally Friendly Rock Climbing in the Peak District
Peak District Photography - Carsington Sports and Leisure - Ashbourne
Carsington Sports and Leisure have been providing training courses for professionals and amateur enthusiasts for many years in water based activities. The activities they offer include: Sailing Windsurfing Kayak & Canoeing Powerboating Mountain Biking Climbing Fishing Youth Activities Orienteering Courses Corporate Events Kids Activity Days Peddle and Paddle Days Youth Courses They offer training in a wide variety of disciplines, using a diverse fleet of modern equipment. The centre is a Royal Yachting...
Carsington Sports and Leisure - Ashbourne
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Peak district rock climbing



STOP PRESS !

Please visit our brand new rock climbing site at www.peakdistrict-rockclimbing.co.uk covering the whole of the Peak District Climbing Experience!

If you are reading this then I'm sure the Peak District needs little introduction as Britain's busiest national park. In the last fifty years the peak has become a "˜mecca' for rock climbers due to the vast amount of accessible climbing available.


The first areas explored by the pioneers were the gritstone escarpments, areas that are still massively popular today. The "˜grit' is a fairly unique rock climbing medium for which the area is now world famous due to the unusual friction properties of the rock. Areas such as Stanage, Burbage, Curbar and Froggatt edges have routes from the easiest classics to the modern test pieces.

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In the centre of the Peak District lies the white peak, characterised by its limestone geology. This area provides a different climbing experience, the rock being steeper and offering less friendly cracks. As a result many of the climbs were initially climbed with artificial aid before being climbed "˜free' as standards improved. Today this legacy of natural and quarried crags leaves a variety of both traditional (trad) and bolt protected sport climbs many of which represent the upper end of the sport.

As a result the peak district has climbing to occupy the enthusiastic beginner through to the world-class athlete visiting from abroad.


When to visit?

The "˜Peak' does have variable weather, however lying in the centre of the UK it seems less prone to the variations you are likely to experience on western coasts. More often the weather is good (i.e. climbable) than not.

For the serious climber keen to make the most of the "˜grits' excellent friction properties the best part of the season is the autumn, winter and the spring. In fact the winters can be relatively mild in the peak, with snow disappearing quickly. On the more exposed crags the wind dries wet crags very quickly, allowing good climbing in between the showers for those keen to stick it out.

In the summer, the weather is frequently good. The limestone crags in the Dales of the white peak, are usually in good condition combined with the gritstone edges. During the height of the summer it's often possible to visit the higher moorland crags to escape the heat.


Guidebooks

The peak district is covered by a variety of guidebooks, which describe each area in detail. For first time visitors the BMC Publication "˜On Peak Rock' is a good starting point. ISBN 0-903908-91-3.


Access

Most crags in the peak district fall under access agreements defined in the Countryside Rights of Way Act (CROW), meaning that they are easily accessible.

However, from time to time some locations are closed for grouse shooting, land management etc. For up to date details check the BMC access database


How to start climbing

There are many ways to start climbing: your first experience could be bouldering, climbing with a friend, with a club, as part of an instructional course or through an indoor climbing wall.

Bouldering is an easy and relatively accessible way of starting to rock climb. Usually taking place on small outcrops or boulders with out ropes or specialist equipment. Recently the use of large crash pads has become universally accepted to prevent injury and erosion. See Bouldering section.

Traditionally the first step into climbing was with experienced friends, learning the skills practically as you go. This type of climbing apprenticeship is an ideal way to learn and get loads of climbing done. Sadly, this isn't open to everybody, but there are some alternatives.

Some people prefer to learn as part of a large social group, in this case regional and national climbing clubs provide a unique opportunity. Most are supportive of novices and will offer a varied "˜meets' diary of events in a variety of areas. The BMC provides a list of approved clubs and contact details.

Indoor climbing walls are another good way of starting climbing. Many offer brief introductory sessions to get you started with the fundamental techniques of belaying and leaving the ground! In this controlled environment it is quite easy to progress quickly, reading yourself for the move outside.

For many people an instructional course will be their preferred way of learning either from scratch or when making the transition from climbing indoors to real rock. The difference between these two environments is quite considerable and it's often good to seek advice at this stage. Courses are provided in the peak district by local outdoor centres, local climbing walls and Mountaineering Instructors and Guides. For the Peak District instructor can be found via:


Association of Mountaineering Instructors (AMI)


British Mountain Guides


In addition, the BMC booklet: "˜New Climbers' is a useful resource that is available free to members.


Rock Climbing Safely
"An important part of learning to climb is developing the art of balancing the skills you have available against the challenges provided by the climb. That the sport involves a level of risk is an integral part of the activity, so it is important for an individual's enjoyment of climbing to identify a personally-acceptable level of risk"? Extract from BMC New Climbers Booklet.

The BMC Participation Statement: The BMC recognises that rock climbing and mountaineering are activities with a danger of personal injury or death. Participants in these activities should be aware of and accept these risks and be responsible for their own actions and involvement.

Despite this statement and the obvious risks part of the satisfaction of climbing is acting sensibly, managing risk and trusting your companions. As a result rock climbing actually has a good safety record in comparison to the vast number of participants.

It's definitely worthwhile:

"¢ Learning the skills of "˜first aid'.
"¢ Knowing how to seek help from the emergency services if you need it. In the peak district climbing accidents are often dealt with by local Mountain Rescue Teams.
"¢ Seriously consider wearing a helmet, they have saved more than a few people from more serious injury.

In the event of an accident requiring the assistance of Mountain Rescue:

Dial 999 and ask for "˜POLICE - MOUNTAIN RESCUE'

Note: All mountain rescue incidents in the Peak District area fall under the responsibility of Derbyshire Constabulary. If in any doubt request Derbyshire Police Operations Room.


Further Information from Edale Mountain Rescue Team



Bouldering in the Peak District

The following is an excerpt from Peak District: Bouldering by Rupert Davies & Jon Barton, Vertebrate Graphics.

The Peak District is one of the most developed climbing areas in the world. There are few, if any, other places that offer the same breadth and volume of easily accessible climbing in so many different styles in such a small geographical area.
Since Al Williams produced the last guide, Peak bouldering has come of age. All of the old desperates have been repeated, and the intense development of the last few years has opened up many new problems and areas. But despite all of the changes, one thing remains the same: pulling over the top of the perfect grit boulder problem, with your friends spotting you below, at the end of a crisp autumn day, the sinking sun turning the sky orange and the rock glowing amber, is the best feeling in the world.

SAFETY STATEMENT

Rock Climbing, bouldering and spotting are activities that carry a risk of personal injury or death. Participants in these activities need to be aware of, and accept, that these risks are present and they should be responsible for their own actions and involvement. Nobody involved in the production of this website accepts any responsibility for any errors it contains, nor are they liable for any injuries or damages that may arise as a result of its use.

Where to start bouldering
Without doubt the best beginners venue in the Peak is the boulders below Burbage South. Pleasant and low, in a lovely setting, with many, many easy problems, it really is a great place to start a bouldering career. Next, the top boulders at Cratcliffe are good. Again they are low, easy angled with great landings and there are some superb problems, but it's not as extensive as Burbage South. While you are there, check out Robin Hood's Stride. A trip to the Roaches is in order next, especially if there has been a spell of good weather. More low, user friendly boulders below the Lower Tier will test your smearing and slab climbing skills on rough rock with impeccable friction. After these areas it may be time to branch out a little. Try Stanage Plantation, Owler Tor, Newstones, Wimberry and Tody's Playground at Froggatt.