Eastern Edges: A Gritstone Top Ten – Courtesy of James Thacker

The eastern edges of the Peak District offer some of the finest accessible rock climbing around in the UK. With literally thousands of routes the first time visitor is spoilt for choice.

To make things a little easier, here is my personal “˜gritstone top ten’ from grade difficult to extremely severe:

Black Hawk Traverse
Grade: Difficult (D) Location: Stanage Edge

This fantastically popular route is often included in many peoples initial gritstone apprenticeship, never hard, and well furnished with holds it is very friendly but not without interest. At half height the famous “Bishop’s Stride”? will test the leaders resolve as you step across, and slightly down, onto a good ledge. Having done this, you will be rewarded with a choice of three equally good finishes.

Flying Buttress
Grade: Very Difficult (VD) Location: Stanage Edge

This excellent classic takes you into steeper territory above and slightly to the side of the imposing overhangs of “˜Flying Buttress Direct’. The climbing is honest and obvious with a fantastic finish on some of the best holds on Stanage.

Heather Wall
Grade: Severe (S) Location: Froggatt Edge

A great route at the grade which gets gradually harder as you move upwards, although punctuated by good rests; for many climbers the ideal route. The final crack can be climbed in a number of ways but for many, this is a great spot to experiment with gritstone “hand-jamming”?.

Christmas Crack
Grade: Hard Severe (HS) Location: Stanage Edge

Back to Stanage for the classic “˜Christmas Crack’, this is what proper routes should be about. Surprisingly steep, but well furnished with good holds and protection, it’s a route to be savoured. On the top section there is also the opportunity to pull up the exposed rib if you fancy testing yourself..

Mississippi Buttress Direct
Grade: Very Severe (VS 4c) Location: Stanage Edge

One of Stanage’s landmark routes at the grade, “˜Mississippi Buttress Direct’ is one of the longer routes at Stanage and is not without interest. Steep bridging up the initial groove and flake line takes you to two distinct, but well protected, bulges.

The File
Grade: Very Severe (VS 4c) Location: Higgar Tor

“˜The File’ is a landmark for any “˜gritstone’ climber, being a true test of “hand-jamming”? technique. Those who have trouble often bear the scars of fight. The start is probably the hardest section but the fine, parallel crack line at the top maintains the interest. Keep a little in reserve!

Croton Oil
Grade: Hard Very Severe (HVS 5a) Location: Rivelin Edge

“˜Croton Oil’ is a classic with a difference, climbing the “˜Rivelin Needle’ a freestanding gritstone pinnacle, makes quite a unique experience with some fine climbing positions. Starting at the base of the south face, climb the wall trending slightly left making use of good cracks and a slightly loose flake at the top (be careful). Descent is by abseil from a metal chain at the top.

Chequers Buttress
Grade: Hard Very Severe (HVS 5a) Location: Froggatt Edge

One of Froggatt’s major classics, “˜Chequers Buttress’ is perhaps one of the most photographed pitches on Peak District Gritstone. Climbing up the huge flake is followed by some tenuous, and well protected, climbing out left to the fine arête. Follow this in a spectacular position to the top.

Suicide Wall
Grade: Hard Very Severe (HVS 5a) Location: Cratcliffe Tor

Perhaps a contender for the finest pitch on Peak District gritstone “˜Suicide Wall’ is a stunning classic made famous by the book “˜Hard Rock’. It follows the steep wall by a series of jamming cracks, wall climbing on small holds and an impressive final, usually speedy, layback. Best climbed in one single sustained pitch.

Left Unconquerable
Grade: Extremely Severe (E1 5b) Location: Stanage Edge

An established classic and a popular route as a first E1, “˜Left Unconquerable’ takes the precarious crack and flake line to a good horizontal break. Here there is the opportunity to place as much protection as possible, before climbing the tricky upper section. At the top you are rewarded with large holds made for tired arms.

Courtesy of James Thacker