Due to the two major rock types in the Peak District being very different, two major styles of climbing have emerged. Those practitioners from either "˜camp’, will passionately tell you which is best. However, the reality is that both styles are equally valid and the Peak District is stronger due to the diversity of rock climbing ethics and style.

Traditional (trad) Rock Climbing

Traditionally most of the early pioneers started climbing on the gritstone edges with little or no equipment, many ascents being made "˜solo’ without the protection of a rope. Gradually as climbing protection improved a strong ethical code developed around this sort of climbing. As a result on the gritstone edges today the accepted style is to climb routes, placing appropriate protection (nuts, friends etc) in a single push without rests or falls. In addition all protection is hand placed by the leader; bolts, pegs and other fixed equipment are not tolerated on the "˜grit’.

One of the most important ethical codes is to look after the rock, as such people should be careful when placing and removing protection not to leave unsightly scars. Even more importantly, chipping or altering the rock in any way is an offence that the Peak District National Park won’t take lightly, and won’t make you any friends in the climbing community. Classic traditional gritstone crags include Stanage, Curbar, Froggatt, Bamford, Baslow, among others.

Traditional climbing on the Peak District’s limestone crags has emerged slightly differently. In many cases these crags were perceived as being too steep by many climbers and as such were climbed artificially. This type of climbing by pulling on "˜aid’ in the form of pegs and bolts literally forced routes into submission by engineering. As time went on and standards improved these old "˜aid’ routes were climbed "˜free’ to create many of the peak districts classic lines.

In many cases pegs, and the odd bolt were still "˜in-situ’ and were used by subsequent "˜free’ climbers for protection. As such these pegs and bolts are still tolerated today, although in many cases they will not be replaced when they finally disappear. These routes are climbed in a similar style to those on gritstone, i.e. ground up wards, with little previous knowledge, placing protection by hand and hopefully not falling off!

Classic Limestone crags include locations such as High Tor, Wild Cat, Ravensdale, Stoney Middleton etc.

Sport Climbing

In some limestone areas where the rock is more compact (homogenous) "˜sport climbing’ has emerged as the dominant style. In this case the rock is climbed free as above, with protection being provided by drilled expansion, or resin bolts. This means that many routes, some of exceptional difficulty can be repeatedly practised or "˜worked’ until the required sequence (and strength) are committed to memory. Having done this an ascentionist would then aim to climb the route from the ground up, clipping protection as they go.

As a result of this style some areas have been accepted as largely devoted to "˜sport climbing’, for example, Raven Tor, Cornice (Chee Dale), Blackwell Halt and Horseshoe Quarry.